The city was a shadow of its former self on Tuesday night. Clutches of would-be revellers dressed for the sesh wandered the damp, grimy pavements more in hope than expectation. They were desperate for some of that party buzz the capital’s Camden Street used to serve on tap, but there wasn’t much of it to be found. The handful of pubs open since Monday’s great unlocking were struggling to serve the few drinkers they had and, on the other hand, keep out the “customers” they didn’t want.

Before the you-know-what, Delahunt was a highly rated restaurant with a loyal — and occasionally royal — following. It is in a former off-licence, which, before that, was the sort of grocery that your granny’s mother told her

Delahunt: a royal haunt where the food is majestic | Ireland

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